Quantcast
Channel: A fetish leathercrafters journal
Viewing all 77 articles
Browse latest View live

The Finished Butterfly SJ with Padded Hood

$
0
0
Tightest arm pockets I've ever made. Two-layered hood with foam padding. Laced and zipped rear closure. It's one dark, lovely ride. 











Bondage Fist Mitts - Let's make a pair!

$
0
0
For a long time, I've wanted to make a pair of super-tight fitting bondage fist mitts. 

I've always thought boxing gloves had their own special appeal. Something about the way they render the subs' fingers useless, making them even more helpless. Especially when combined with additional bondage. These are going to be a sleeker version than a boxing glove, a more couture take in soft black lamb leather, with a zipper for quick on-and-off. Did I mention they'd be really tight? 

I start with a careful, fitted wrap. Duct tape over plastic wrap. 

 Sketch some keylines with a sharpie to define the pattern shapes. I'm looking for natural plane breaks, and trying to make pleasing, not-too-hard-to-sew shapes. Smooth out those curves.
 I put a piece of string under a strip of masking tape to create a kind of quick-release tab. Once the wrap is done, just pull the string to let your model out. This gets taped back up before cutting the pattern apart.
 Initially I have four parts:
 Two sides, and a top and a bottom piece. I like the way the sides are...
 ...but the piece for the top has a very pronounced cupped shape. (Shown below in an out-of-order image.) That was not going to lay flat as it was.
 So I split that top piece into 2 parts, giving me two hockey-stick shaped pieces. 5 pieces total for the pattern. 
 These all get transferred to card and cleaned up.
 And finally cut out, ready to transfer to the leather.
 It's a soft black Italian lamb measuring about 0.7mm thick.
 I transfer the pattern with a pen - nice, precise marks.
 These get cut out with about a 1/4" seam allowance. I keep it minimal on this thin leather.
 I clip what will be the zipped top panel first. This gets sewn only at the two ends (leaving room for the zipper in the middle).
 The whole seam gets glued down, prepared for the zipper to be sewn in.
 Lately I've been using double-sided tape to hold the zipper in place before sewing. It allows very precise placement, and keeps things from moving around at all while going through the machine.
 Get everything lined up... stick it in place with the tape...
 ...and carefully topstitch.
 Instead of backtracking on this delicate leather, I usually trim the threads long and tie them from the backside.
 Trim the zipper to length.
 Prep the tongue with double-sided tape.
 Position the tongue, and topstitch in place.
 This gives you a second line of topstitching on the tongue side.
 You can trim the tongue down if needed.
 Clip the bottom strip to the top where they meet, and sew that together. Glue and flatten that seam.
 Now, we're ready to sew on the sides. These get clipped in place and sewn.
 I find it best to sew the "shape" and let the strip follow along. So I'm looking at the line for the side panel when sewing these together, and letting the "top and bottom" panel follow along from below. (Hope that makes sense.)
 One side down... time for the other.
 Same deal as before: Clip...
 ...and sew, following the line on the side panel.
At this point, I use a 1 by 2 secured to the workbench to hold the workpiece in place. 
There's a bit of foam at the tip to help the hand pocket retain its shape. 
It gives me something to push against as I glue and flatten the seams. 
I just brush contact cement on the seam allowance, and flatten the seams all around. 
Turned right-side out, I'm pretty happy with the shape. 


The bottom edge gets glued and topstitched as well. 
And our mittens are done. Ready for the test-fit session. 

Fist Mitts Test Fit Gallery

$
0
0
So these turned out pretty nice. 
I'm happy with the fit, after tweaking the pattern from the first go-round. The test mitten in lamb wasn't tight enough, and could actually be slid off. Unacceptable! It was probably the stretch inherent in this leather that allowed that to happen. You actually may have to make something slightly undersized to get it to fit just right in your desired leather. It's the opposite of "ease" in garment making. 
I decided to put the zipper on the back of the hand, and  I love the clean look of the inside. Now I really want to do a pair with lacing instead of a zip-closure. 
 
The fitted, bulbous shape at the end is surreal-looking. Very stumpy. In a good way...
I am actually going to have to make a pair of cuffs just for these, as the tight ones I usually use are a bit too big. Ahh, the problems I make for myself...

cat in the kneeling posture suit

$
0
0
The amazing cat at her master's (-EM-'s) feet in one of my kneeling restraints. This was just a quick cellphone pic, shared by cat on her fetlife gallery.  I love these two... what a couple! 

Apparently she was kept in there for about an hour. Even managed to fall asleep. It always makes me happy to know the gear I make is being put to good use. 

Prehistoric f-suit stone carving

$
0
0
A few years ago someone sent me these fantastic images of a figure carved in stone from a prehistoric site located somewhere either in the UK or Europe. These are actually replica souvenir trinkets available for sale. Unfortunately I managed to lose the specific information, and am left only with the images, which I have to admit, do bear a striking resemblance to the f-suit design. 

 I love the idea that certain forms have timeless, universal appeal, and these stylized figures have a fecund voluptuousness that comes across quite clearly. Perhaps this was some sort of fertility idol? 
 The red-dipped and shiny glazed versions have an added visual flair. 
 If anyone out there recognizes the images or may know any information about the figure, could you please contact me? 
 I would love to order some of these...
You can either leave a comment (I won't publish it), or email me directly at christopherfetish{a}gmail.com. 

Balled-up Restraint Design Sketches

$
0
0
I've started working in earnest on the balled-up restraint, project number 3 from my "Top 10" list of last year.  This promises to be a good challenge, getting the fit just right for what is a pretty complex shape, in a crouched, balled-up position. I've already created a wrap from my model, and am figuring out exactly how this restraint is going to work. 

 I keep debating how I want to tackle the arms. Initially, I was going to go with long strait-jacket-style sleeves which would buckle behind her back. But the idea of laying on top of the buckle if my model was lying on her back didn't seem like a good solution. I definitely want to use this sack in that position, with her toe D-ring chained to the ceiling. 
I was toying with the idea of having the sleeve be continuous, with a zipper to lock the arms in position. They would form a permanent loop. I'm just not sure if that's going to give my model enough room to get in and out. But, it would be very clean looking. 
As it is now, this is going to take 2 zippers for entry. One in the rear from the top of the hood, down the back and through the crotch to the rear of the knees. The second zipper would be in the front, from the knees to the toes, securing the lower legs and feet tightly in the foot pocket. 


I'm posting an old drawing from 1998, just to show how long this idea has been kicking around in my head. Obviously there are many differences in the details and specifics, but the general idea is the same: a balled-up straitjacket/sleepsack type of design. 

By the way, I wanted to send thanks to everyone who has contacted me with support and encouragement for the ongoing "Top 10" projects. It's great to know there are people out there who actually enjoy following along and seeing the ideas brought to life. It does make a difference, and means a lot to me. 

Leather Thickness Conversion Charts

$
0
0
Have you ever needed to convert leather and found it difficult to get from one measurement type to another? You know, from oz. to fractional inches for example? It happens to me all the time (especially when ordering leather online), so I finally put together a couple of conversion charts for the leather thicknesses I use the most. 

Leather suppliers usually describe their leather in oz. thickness, but the way I measure leather in the workshop is with a pair of digital calipers (which gives me the thickness in mm). These charts allow me to figure out right away that a 2.5 ounce leather will be about 1mm thick. 

There are 2 versions of the chart: one with bands marking the oz. lines, one with bands highlighting the mm. These only cover leather from 1 to 4 mm thick - that's everything from a very lightweight lamb (0.7mm) or pig leather to a very thick bullhide (3.5-4oz.). Of course, many vegetable-tanned leathers can be thicker than 4mm, but I decided to leave that for another chart. Think of these as more for light, medium and heavy-weight garment or chrome-tanned hides that can be sewn with a typical industrial leather sewing machine. 


 PDFs of the mm chart can be downloaded here, the oz chart here. I hope you find them useful!


20 Questions for PD of InSex - A Follow Up

$
0
0
PD in his younger days...
 What kind of person creates what PD created with InSex? What kind of mind creates so many dark, wonderful things (and actually makes them happen in real life)?


I have to admit, I've spent a lot of time thinking about it. I had such a visceral reaction to the site, and it always attracted and repulsed me in equal measure. This curiosity led me to my 20 questions post of a while back. 

One of the many innovative ties from the early days of InSex. 

Someone wrote to me and said “You know, PD’s on FetLife, why don’t you just write to him?” I did, but never got a reply. After seeing the "Graphic Sexual Horror" documentary, I have a feeling I know why. 

PD's artwork

PD’s an artist. In the truest sense. He pursued his art. The line between his work, the the sex videos and content that he created and his personal life, all blurred together.

At some point there was no line for him. Models were expected to play with PD off camera, and if they weren’t willing, they would not be used for future shoots. According to at least one model interviewed, It was an all-or-nothing proposition. 

The success of InSex gave PD the cash to realize some of his darkest fantasies. To collaborate with others who worked in a range of materials - leather, wood, steel, fiberglass.

There was intense financial incentive for models to complete the shoots if they didn’t complete the sessions, they wouldn’t get paid as much as if they did. And if they quit (safeworded out) the possibility of future work (and income) would go away as well.


I came away from my research with the thought of PD and Insects as being a sort of cautionary tale. What would I do with the ability to realize whatever fantasy I had? What if I had unlimited budget, an ample supply of nubile young models who would do my bidding if I waved enough cash in their faces? What if I had an unlimited budget for making whatever restraint I could imagine in whatever material I wanted, and could use them on real flesh-and-blood models? How far would you go? What kind of dark beautiful world would you create if you had no limits?

KGB, metalworker who realized many of PD's ideas with great craftsmanship. 

I admired the intensity and “honesty” of the images on InSex. This wasn’t faked, pretend tie-up games. It was real, graphic and hardcore. But for every beautifully executed bondage scenario, there seemed to be an almost nausea-inducing descent into pain, fear and surreal horror. That was the truth of insex for me.

The graphic Sexual Horror movie covers a lot of PD's background. An early experience of playing tie up games, which led to his sexual awakening, for one.

Next, exposure to a live bondage performance in Asia during military service left an indelible impression on him. 

Pursued career as an artist and a teacher. But realized he wouldn’t achieve tenure because of the subject matter of his art. Rejected by the system, he determined at that point to “corrupt your children.”

The creation of the classic leather bondage hood is discussed...

He's very visually oriented. Very sensitive to the aesthetics of his creations. Also pays attention to fit and functionality. Working with the seamstress, they based the hood design on a prototype PD had taken apart and re-sewn many times over the past 2 years. They would keep working on it until they got it just right. It shows. 

Cool cameo by a Consew leather stitching machine in the background. 

It’s about control. His use of coded numbers for his models was an attempt to keep them from using insex as a platform to build their own following online. He didn’t want them to benefit from the exposure they got from on his site.

Was the allure of money (I won’t call it “easy money”) and promise of future work enough to encourage decisions that might not have been made otherwise?

Was the power and appeal of the site its dance on the edge of consent, sensation and safety? When all the rules of culture and polite society are thrown off, all limitations eliminated, all resources available, what do you end up creating? How far do you go?

Check out the PD interviews on Serious Images.com and Graphic Sexual Horror movie (available on Amazon). And of course, you can still subscribe to the original content here at InSex Archives. Fascinating stuff...

Tape wrap progress...

$
0
0
This is the first time I've attempted a wrap in a crouched position. You can see there is definitely a nice shape around the derriere part. I'm hoping to can keep that beautiful contour into the final piece. 
I'm still working out where the seams are going to go when it comes to that shapely rear end. Lots of different options... This is really exploring new territory for me. 

 Because she's going to be bent over, I don't want wrinkles or anything bunching up in the stomach area. This is going to be a one-position restraint. It won't be possible for my model to lay flat inside this piece. 
 I'm happy with the way it's looking so far... More to come. 

Padded Sensory Deprivation Hood - PART I

$
0
0
This week's project: a padded, 2-layer sensory deprivation hood. This is a male version of the hood I attached to the butterfly jacket (project seen here), and I'll take you through all the steps along the way of making this one. 

We begin with my wood head form, already dressed in a tight fitting leather hood. I'll be using the same pattern for the inner hood, only slightly modified for the different rear opening. The first thing I want to do is create a pattern for the foam layer, and for that we need a wrap. 

The hooded form gets wrapped with pallet wrap. 
 I use this trick to make it easy to release the wrap: Get some painter's tape and a length of string. 
 Put the string on the tape, and use that to make a sort of rip-cord to help remove the wrap when we're done. 
 I align this tape/string along the rear centerline. 
 And make sure to leave enough string at either end to grab onto. 
 Now we can go to town on the duct-tape wrap. 
 Piece by piece, we slowly build up the duct-tape coverage. 
 Until we have everything nicely encapsulated. 
 Draw on the seam lines with a Sharpie. 
 I try to find clean lines along the break of the plane - I try to keep in mind how the leather is going to wrap around this curved form. 
 Once I'm happy with the wrap and seam placement…
 I pull the string ends to release the wrap. 
 Plastic wrap keeps anything from sticking. 
 And now we've got a shape for our foam inner layer. 
 These get trimmed out along the seam line. 
 And I use the shapes to create a paper pattern. 
 The paper pattern is used to mark the shapes on 1/2" foam. 
 And these are cut out. 
 The foam shapes are placed back on the hooded head form, and held with another layer of pallet wrap. 
 I made some modifications to the foam pattern at this point based on the fit of the foam panels. Added a bit along the top edge of the side panels, and at the chin too. 
 This foam layer now gets another wrap job: this time for the pattern that will become the outside of the hood. 
 Same build-up of layers as the first wrap: 
 Little by little, until the shape is completely covered. 
 Once wrapped, seam lines are again drawn on the outer shell. 
 I wanted the lines of the outer layer to match the seams of the inner foam layer. 
 Once happy, the outer layer is cut away along the rear opening seam. 
 We have a nice looking outer hood with the foam panels tucked inside. 
 I actually tried it on at this point, and could tell the shape was pretty much spot on based on the quick test fit. 
 So we end up with our foam pattern, our outer layer pattern:
 And our inner layer pattern: 
Next time: Ready to start building...

Padded Sensory Deprivation Hood - PART II

$
0
0
So, now that we have our pattern we can get started... First the inner hood, which I'm making in a Japanese plonge leather. It's thin (0.5mm) and soft, with a velvety suede texture on the back side. 
 The weird part is I'm making this layer inside-out. I want the smooth shiny surface on the outside, but I don't want any seams on the inside. So the shiny side is where I'm marking and sewing this hood (the opposite of what I'd usually do). 
 I place this sewn plonge inner hood on the form…
 …and glue down all the seams. 
 Next I trace and cut (using my modified pattern) the foam parts. 
 This is half-inch thick foam...
 The outer hood is made of a lamb-tan cowhide (Lamba from Sav-Mor) which is about 1.2mm thick. Very soft, and with a shiny outer surface. 
 I use spray adhesive to glue the foam layer parts to the inner hood. 
 Here you can see the gap for the rear lacing: 
 Once I've sewn the outer layer, I put it on the form inside out, just to check and see how everything is fitting. 
 Looks really nice. I want it to be nice and snug, but not too tight anywhere. 
 I end up gluing a layer of leather into the neck to stiffen it up a bit, and give it a little more structure. 
 I do another test fit, this time right-side out. 
 Everything looks okay... so it's time to glue the outer layer in place. 
 I don't want the chin to slip out of alignment, so I peel the outer layer (like a banana) and apply spray adhesive. 
I fold it back and sew along the neck seam using the post-bed, locking the foam in place. 
 I next fold and clip the rear opening, which is then topstitched along the edge. 
 The neck area of the inner and outer hoods are glued then pressed together. The bottom edge of the collar is then folded up and sewn. 
Now the two hoods are completely locked together. 
 I put it back on the form and lace the hood up to help pull everything together. 
 I want the leather to take shape and rest overnight. 
 Just a couple more finishing touches, and this one is complete! 


Padded Sensory Deprivation Hood - PART III

$
0
0
The initial idea for this hood was to have breathing tubes, but after experimenting with a mock-up of the foam and leather sandwich layers, the best option turned out to be using a plain old #00 grommet. 

I couldn't find a sleek, low-profile way to have the tube secure on both sides. Maybe in future designs I'll figure out a way to make this work, but for now I'm stumped. 
 One more element to add: a rear lacing tongue to keep the hair out of the laces. 
 I used double-sided tape to hold the tongue in position, and stitched it using the post-bed machine with roller foot. 
 I wouldn't recommend doing the tongue sewing after the grommets were set, but in this case the hood is a prototype. The only way to create a pattern is to actually make the thing, making notes and changes along the way. Once the pattern is proofed, it will be easier to set the grommets after sewing the tongue. 
So finally we have the finished hood. And just in time for Christmas! 

Padded Sensory Deprivation Hood - Beauty Pix

Posture Collar Step-by-Step

$
0
0
In response to a request, here's my process for making the locking posture collar with rolled edge. 
I like this design because it fits a wide range of people really well, it isn't too hard to make, and can be produced in pretty much any color and type of leather you like. 
 I start off with 6-7oz. vegetable-tanned leather. Measures about 3.1mm thick. 
I trace my pattern on the smooth side of the leather. 
 Rough-cut the pieces with my shoemaker's knife.

 At this point I start working the leather over the edge of the workbench to take out the curl. 
I do the final cut out using an X-acto knife. Try to keep the knife vertical. 
 I'll use the diamond sharpener and hone to get the knife razor sharp for these cuts. If you do it right, it'll go through smoothly in one pass. 
 Blank cutout complete: 
Next up, I'll round off the sharp edges with an edge beveler tool. 
 
If your tool is nice and sharp, you'll get smooth, continuous offcuts.

 Edge-bevel complete!
 My next step in edge-finishing is to use 100 grit sandpaper to round those edges. 
 Next, I'll use gum tragacanth and a piece of canvas to burnish the edge. 
 I do have a wood burnishing tool, but to me the canvas is the best way to get the combination of heat and pressure to consolidate the fibers along that cut edge, and get them to lay down. You want the friction to build up, and it turns out nice and smooth. 


 Now I'm ready for the outer leather. I cut this piece a bit oversize, and will trim it after it's glued to the veg-tan blank. 
 Both pieces get brushed with contact cement. 
 Once the glue sets up, these inner and outer layer are stuck together. The excess is trimmed carefully around the edges. 
I use my cylinder-bed (which is set up to sew heavy-weight leather) to topstitch the outer and inner layers together. 

At this point, I'm ready to edge-coat. 
 Now we prepare for the rolled edge. I cut 1.75" strips for the bottom and top rolled edge. About 14" for the top, and 12.625" for the bottom. 
 These all get a bit of glue on their "good" side…
 …as do the collars. 
The edge-strip gets clipped to the collar, good-side to good-side, and stitched a bit more than 1/8" from the edge.  
The bottom strip is clipped and sewn the same way. 

Apply glue for the rolled edge to both the backside of the collar…
 
…and the backside of the edge-strip. 
Once the glue sets up, the rolled edge is folded over towards the back (inside) of the collar.
Then back to the cylinder-bed to top stitch along the front side seam - holding the rolled edge in place. (This is the part that your portable sewing machine will probably not be able to handle.)
The excess rolled-edge in the back can now be trimmed off. 

Sometimes I'll use tape to help me see the position of the holes that need to be punched. These marks are transferred over from the pattern. But you have to be really careful that the tape won't pull up the finish on your leather. Be sure and test first!
I use an oblong punch for the slots:

I use the same method for marking holes for the staple plate, which are riveted into place:
 The front O-ring is secured from the back via screws. 
 And we're done…
 Locking tall posture collar in the color of your choice! Thanks for visiting…


The Art of BeE Workshop Japan

$
0
0
One thing I'd hoped when starting the blog was that a bunch of leather crafters and innovators around the world would be able to connect, share ideas and inspire each other. I think it comes from my days in art school, where I found it extremely enriching to just be around other creative types. It can't help but take your ideas and craftsmanship to a higher place. 

I want to introduce you to BeE Workshop, Japan

http://hatikoubo.blog116.fc2.com/

This gentleman is creating some of the most exciting and unique designs I've ever seen. 


Custom-made straitjacket, belt set and 2-layer padded pussy mouth hood.
He contacted me a while ago to let me know that my blog inspired him. I was so blown away by his work, I didn't know how to express it fully. I think in many ways he's more advanced than me as a maker. And his ideas are off-the-charts wonderful. 

He developed his own unique pattern for a padded, 2-layer hood. And he created a pussy-type mouth opening - I've never seen anyone do this in leather. And as if that wasn't enough, he created a harness with detatchable mouth/pussy cover…

 I like the way he has the little pussy lips closed…

I think we have a shared love of hoods and complete coverage restraints. 
 
It's always thrilling for me to see a new take on an old idea. Check out the unique, beautifully-fitted pattern for the straitjacket here. Love the attached rings, and the sleeve lacing. The collar fits beautifully. 
Also, love the beautiful shape on this leg restraint. A really nice fit. 
 He has also made some beautiful armbinders in a range of different styles. I love this classic looking design:

 He's also experimented with an open-hand style:

 A French-maid look with frilly edges in PVC:
 An over-the-shoulder style with a zip-closure:
 An over-the-shoulder style that laces up:
Take a moment to appreciate this fantastic photo…
 An open-shoulder style with zip closure, and contrasting red straps and collar. 
Cannot love this image enough…
Really beautiful custom-harness strap and chain sets too… so much great work. 
 
 I only know of his blog herebut will let you know if he ever puts together a stand-alone website. Don't you agree that his work is just fantastic? 

Thank you BeE workshop, for sharing your inspiring work with us! 



The Leather-Bound Heads of Nancy Grossman

$
0
0
I wanted to share a link to a book about the artist Nancy Grossman. I remember coming across her images when I was very young, and found them absolutely fascinating. This was well before I had any knowledge about the world of S&M, and the fact that they were so gripping, and so unusual - and completely lacking in context usually. They remained mysterious to me until fairly recently. There's now a book about her work: "Nancy Grossman: Tough Life Diarywhich I'd recommend, 
produced in conjunction with a major exhibition of her work at the Tang Museum in Saratoga Springs, New York in 2012.



Since all I know about her work is from the writings of others, I'm including some of it below:

"These wooden heads by Nancy Grossman “with their sensory parts strapped, zipped and nailed shiut. Her famous series is a reaction to “anxiety and turmoil that weigh upon the individual in contemporary society”. When it comes to artistic influences, the exhibit description is really ignoring the big, kinky elephant in the room."

Written by Marina Galperina May 20, 2011




Physical abuse in the artist’s early years and to some disturbing, inappropriate sexual attention from a male relative in her adolescence. Ms. Raven quoted Ms. Grossman: “After 25 years, I see that all of the head sculptures are self-portraits that refer to the bondage of my childhood.” That could partly explain her seemingly obsessive repetition of the image of the enigmatic, scary yet alluring, possibly predatory man. 



But the heads might also be flirtations with a powerful but otherwise buried part of herself. The potential of the female artist had yet to be widely acknowledged in the late ‘60s. Ms. Grossman’s early heads were ferocious harbingers of the coming feminist insurgency. 




Whoever or whatever that masked being was, he, she or it possessed Ms. Grossman like an occult spirit and led  her to create figures that are as darkly weird as they are sensually beautiful. 

Ms. Grossman’s heads seem to partake in a chilling depersonalization of sex at the same time as they celebrate demonic, thrill-seeking anonymity. 


But there are other dimensions too. They can be taken as allegorical figures of extreme states of male consciousness.




Some have all of their orifices covered, which adds to the feeling of hidden, pent-up intentions and blind ambitions. Some have animal horns protuding from their foreheads. Others bellow and howl with toothy maws. Altogether they radiate a primal warrior’s spirit. Yet at the same time they appear captured by the gear they wear. They cannot escape tbeir own archetypal natures. 






If you know Ms. Grossman’s heads only from reproductions in art books, you may be surprised at how lovingly they are made. She began by carving, filling, sanding, painting and polishing a chunk of found wood - a piece of telephone pole, say - into something resembling a classical or neo-classical head. With their strong features and thick necks hinting at muscular bodies, they read as male, although Amazonian femininity is not out of the question. As for the top layer of animal skin, only Ms. Grossman knows exactly how she fitted this covering and its hardware so perfectly to the complex topography ot the underlying sculpture. 





Anyone passingly familiar with American art of the past half-century will recognize the eerie, erotically menacing leather-clad heads that Nancy Grossman produced between the late 1960s and 1990. Often including zippers, buckles, straps and chains, these sculptures most immediately evoke S&M bondage gear. Displayed in a high-end shop for the sexually adventurous, they would fit right in. 





Love the red lining around the nose, and notice the use of buttons for the eyes.








































Artist in her studio at age 25.

"Signing" her work with nail heads driven onto the wooden base.


Nancy Grossman being interviewed.





This monumental sculptural figure is larger than life-sized. 

I hope this inspires some of you to do your own research about this remarkable artist and her powerful work. 

Pommel Horse Project

$
0
0
I've been wanting to make a pommel horse for a really long time. I just think they're pretty cool from a sculptural-furniture object standpoint, and of course they offer a myriad of perversion possibilities too… Plus this mostly came together from scrap material - I had a piece of foam sitting around, and a leather remnant that was about the right size. I just needed to purchase the 4x4 lumber for the legs, and it was off to the races. 

As you can see from the photos, the structure isn't based on fine mortise-and-tenon joinery. I used the poor-man's method of wood glue and a shit-load of screws. 
I was fine with that, as everything but the legs gets covered with upholstery anyway. And trust me, this baby is strong and rigid. I toyed with the idea of tapering the legs, but if you see the antique versions (1stDibs usually has a great, if expensive, selection) they typically have straight (un-tapered) legs. 
For the next step, I just laid the foam over the horse and wrapped it in plastic. I cut a couple of pieces from the foam to cap the ends. 

Next up: duct tape. Longtime followers of this blog know that it's my preferred method for generating custom pattern shapes for complex objects. 

A couple of layers on, until everything's nice and smooth. Do you notice the lip on the left side of the image below? I thought I'd try something clever there, and make a space for someone to fit their head between the horse and someone straddling the horse. Didn't really work out, so I'd recommend keeping the sides a cleaner, traditional symmetrical shape. 
Draw potential seam lines out with a marker. 
I was toying with the idea of it wrapping around a bit…

Cut the duct-tape pattern off with scissors. We end up with the main piece…
…and two end-pieces. 
I'm sure at some point I traced the duct-tape pattern onto butcher paper to make the pattern. I usually make the pattern symmetrical and perfect the lines. Then it's transferred to the leather. 
I ended up using darts even though I wanted to keep it as smooth as possible. This is dictated by the shape you want to make and the thickness/stretchy-ness of the leather. 
This leather isn't very stretchy…
Once the end pieces are sewn on and flattened, I pull it over the foam and secure along the edge with upholstery tacks. 
It came out pretty nice, and makes me want to do more furniture-type upholstered and padded stuff. 
Put some stain on the legs, just to give it some color. 
In this shot you can see the ridges in the foam from where it was kept in storage. Over time I expect those to come out… 
And finally at least 3 coats of polyurethane to protect the finish. Sanding with fine grit in between. I've been liking the satin finish lately… Do you think I should add some forged iron rings? 
Hope you liked the project! Stay tuned, more to come…
Viewing all 77 articles
Browse latest View live